Thanks for all the insight. It should end up at the ammeter. You might make it all the way back to the ignition switch. Here are pics of the passenger side courtesy light wire routing and the installation location of the front courtesy lights. I was taught to always work from power out backwards to power in.
So, I piggybacked the wires using a double connector and no plastic plug the instructions called for a single plastic plug and connector, but the double connector would not fit in the plastic clip from the driver's horn and began routing to the passenger horn. The '65 used a real ammeter but with a much larger wire that did not even connect to the ammeter but instead was clipped into a loop on the back of the ammeter and only magnetically coupled to the meter. My car does not see water, so I am not too concerned about this. The kit calls for a double connector, but one was not included, so I simply used male and female standard connectors to plug into the license plate light. I am looking for the part that actually holds the light bulb in place in the rear. My 72 is driving me insane.
This is a short run of wires so there are limited areas to route the switch wiring. This is a region where moisture can get in, so the problem becomes even more critical. The starter winding energizes, thereby cranking the engine. At the risk of getting flamed, I'm not sure what the fuses would have to do the coil wire. When there is a discharge the magnetic field should be reversed and it should induce a current into the loop. The other smaller wire is an ignition ballast resistor bypass.
There are two theories on current flow. Do not use diagonal cutting pliers. The American Autowire kit supplies a quick disconnect and a lot of wire. That's where I lit my clock and tach from. Those of us with originals of the '66 and later style ammeter rarely, if ever, see the ammeter needles move either direction. When we spoke with Jim Thayer at Alloy Metal Products about how to add circuits to the factory wiring harness he stressed using the connections Ford and Alloy Metal provide, and knowing when and how to add protected auxiliary circuits with relays for high-amp draw accessories.
I have wRning lights and do have a heavy black yellow wire to the solenoid. Does ayone know how to hot wire a '68 Mustang? You need a heavy-duty switching device to cycle power on and off with high-amp electrical devices. Your wiring should never look like this. Everything may appear to be okay but it really isn't. If you want to just start and run the car independant of the rest of the electrical system, that's simple. Your high-amp starter requires very heavy-gauge cable and a starter solenoid to make the connection. Not enough electrical capacity is like trying to drink a Slurpee with a cocktail straw.
Periodically perform a light bulb inspection on your classic Mustang. Another mistake we see, and have made, is proper grounding of the Ignitor module. For the '66 and later system see: This is the circuit in the standard Ford ammeter schematic but they don't draw it out to indicate how it actually works. My tach and clock are dash mounted. Some parking and taillight bulbs have been known to short internally.
This is how you splice and protect a premium electrical system. I then ran them through the factory hooks behind the instrument bezel. Vehicles of this age didn't place fuses in this location. Since you already know you have no voltage at the coil, You should back up to the ignition switch and verify there is 12 volts coming to it. My stock wire was Green with red stripe. All grounding surfaces must be metal to metal.
Where can I pick up a feed to do this? Check all your fuses, and if they are all good, start at the coil end and work your way back. When you get it all figured out maybe you can also confirm that the schematic in that linked thread is truly how the '65 ammeter cars were wired. On-starter solenoids may be located on an assembly that is only accessible from under the vehicle, so lift the vehicle using a jack if necessary before beginning the process of wiring the solenoid. A new harness is simply safer and can be installed in a matter of hours. JonK67, thanks for the links. Start by checking hot-to-ground at the battery, and work back through the fuse block s to see if you managed to burn a fuse. First make sure you don't have a blown fuse.
If you are fortunate enough to have one of these harnesses, you can usually just tap off of one of those feeds. It is best to have several grounds where possible to ensure a complete circuit. And it soinds like you did smoke the wire on the amp meter. In that thread I commented that the way its drawn it looked to me like the loop-through ammeter can only read alternator charge but can never read a discharge which seems rather odd. Perhaps it is a bit different from the one I purchased from Mustangs Unlimited, even though they assured me it would work.