In reading the wiring diagrams, which i have attached, it seems to me that the power side goes from the ignition switch, to the number one fuse, then directly to the blower motor, so, if the number 1 fuse is good, then i assume i should have power on one side of the blower motor connector, but, there doesnt appear to be. I'd check the power input to it it should have activation power as well as fan power. It appeared to be reading the correct values. When I typed a description of the problem in my favorite search engine, the number one result said. My mechanical knowledge started with things like an old Henry J and '49 Monarch among my first cars and to make these run I also didn't need much experience in electricity or electronics.
My issue is, basically, am i reading the wiring diagram right, and the blower resistor gets power after it goes through the blower switch on the dash, or am i missing something here? Dec 18, 2010 Under the dashboard on the passenger side Look for a wiring harness that plugs in just to the left of the blower motor. Quote: The heater blower circuit has a bunch of embellishments but it's essentially the same as it has been for decades. Last question, since I have power going to the resistor pack is there a possiblity the switch is bad? The resister pack is on a National Backorder with Dodge. Can it cause this problem. But I was working on Mopars from the mid 60's to a forced retirement due to health in the mid 80's when parts were still replaced and trouble shooting was done by hand, mind, and experience not a plug in computer telling you what is wrong.
After stopping by a few message boards and reading some notes before writing this article, I see many people are not replacing the blower resistor connector. His computer will find out who has them and you can choose the closest dealer nearest you. Does anyone know if there is a kit or if a replacement plug is available with out having to replace the whole wiring harness. You need one to help remove the metal connector from the plastic holder. When I pulled off the electrical connector, some of the lugs on the resistor fell apart. Just the way it is today. Getting tired of replacing it!! Reinstalled the resistor, turned on the blower-still no blower on lower speeds.
Next to the blower motor. Right now I ran a toggle inside the cab to control the relay manually. Then in February I gets smoked out to find both resistor an harness completely melted. The top wire at blower motor is voltage, the bottom wire is ground. Then they buy a aftermarket blower motor and again it keeps burning up. I cut each wire about an inch away from the electrical connector. The resistor is the motor speed controller.
Dodge Dakota Blower Motor Wiring Diagram can be very useful guide, and dodge dakota blower motor wiring diagram play an important role in your products. They are requested to schedule appointments for this service with their dealers. This amazing 2000 dodge dakota radio wiring plug diagram graphic has uploaded in Mar 10, 2019 by Maria Nieto. Best I can tell, the water is coming from the evaporator. Did you test for B+ voltage at the fuse's? You can also find other images like wiring diagram, parts diagram, replacement parts, electrical diagram, repair manuals, engine diagram, engine scheme, wiring harness, fuse box, vacuum diagram, timing belt, timing chain, brakes diagram, transmission diagram, and engine problems. The plastic connector at the resistor end of the harness was also melted but it does not appear that any of the wires have been effected--no shorts that I can see.
Vehicle Problems Find out what , view the , or keep up-to-date with the. This is a selected page from the air-conditioning section of the you fix cars website. Had to take some tabs off the screw brackets but went in quick and easy. By the way high was the first speed I lost on the old one and when you go in and say that you lost a speed on the fan the first thing they say is,'hi speed, right? Since I've bought it 6 years ago. I peeled of the release paper and applied the gasket around the opening in the firewall.
The way the system is wired, it goes from the ignition switch, to the 1 fuse, then into the blower motor, out of the blower motor, into the resistor pack, and then out to the fan control switch. I did pretty much most of my troubleshooting on my own vehicle. Label components such as resistors and capacitors making use of their worth. Remember that the electricity 12V when measured with a meter does read 12v however the meter doesn't tell you on whether or not the circuit will let the motor draw it's required high current. There is another plug there with several wires going into it so I assume it is the resistor connection. You can even use cheap eBay parts etc.
Use a test light and check both voltage and ground. Down inside the terminal was all this plastic from the melted insulation of the plug! It cost a lot more than seven bucks. The metal electrical connector also has a top and bottom side. I'd target the blower control switch and rheostat, since the blower motor itself seems to work fine with direct current applied. I replaced it with a used one 2 years ago out of a low milage wreck - cost me 5 bucks. I worked as a computer systems trouble shooter for Nortel defunct now for 25 years and have an electrical eng background. Well called my local gero this am and he is sharper than a tack on this stuff.