Apparently the transfer case popped back into gear on the bumpy road. We have to pull off these retention pins and repin it with these two wires to ensure that we have the taillights and all the proper functionality. We're going to work on the other side now. I attached them to the Jeep by drilling a hole in the bottom edge of the bumper just outboard of the frame. Well made and the mount points are spot-on for the holes in the frame. We sell the exciting new Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge and Ram models, as well as a comprehensive array of Boise used cars.
I'm going to use some of these zip ties to go along some of the factory harnesses. While we're at the front of the Jeep, the next step is going to be to disconnect and isolate our three battery grounds. It's really tucked up there you can't even see it on camera. There's going to be Christmas tree on the back of it. There's going to be a nut on this first stud, that's where we're going to connect the positive wire to our back power for the seven way trailer hitch. Pull your black wire through.
Now you can remove the panel underneath. This'll keep the wires nice and divided there. Also make sure that the ball on your hitch is rated for the weight of the vehicle being towed. Pull the black tab up, you'll hear it click and it's completely secure. It's going to go right below it. It'll be a big rubber grommet. In 1998 he earned an OxBridge doctorate in philosophy and immediately emigrated to America.
Once under the dash, I routed the wire over the steering column to the vicinity of the aforementioned connectors. Therefore, the sales code should have been authorized upon build with no dealer intervention required. If you look in there you can easily see that there's male ends in there as well. Now you can pull the inner fender out and get access to that wiring connection. Simply get in there with a small pick, pop it upwards.
I believe this is because the transmission oil slinger is on the input shaft, and the engineers don't want the output shaft of the tranny slowly rotating for hours on end without any oil being thrown onto it. With the seatbelt retention piece removed you can now remove this panel. Let's do the blue next. I'm going to start at the bottom corner and pull outwards. I'm going to start by running some of these through the hole right behind where you put that module.
Use a plastic pry bar. Just cut a slit in the rubber with a knife and slide the wire through. Step 2 of setting your wrangler up to pull a trailer is to instal a trailer wiring harness to your Jeep. Go ahead and use a clothes hanger and just poke it through then we'll get the wires through. Then you can connect the back side of your electrical connection. Remove the front area of the kick panel, same steps.
The two door will be at the exact same spot however you won't have this opening here. We're not going to tighten them up until we have it all the way run to the passenger side taillight. The next step's going to be to put the pin connection into this harness that came with the kit. My guess in 6 months or so. Use a 10 millimeter socket and remove the nut on the top. Do we have the Mopar Parts knowledge that you are looking for and expect? You'll hear that also snap into place. At first, you might think that you could merely splice the trailer wiring into the factory wiring harness and call it good.
I actually talked to someone who experienced this worst case scenario first hand. This male end is going to go on this side here while the female's going to go on the other side. There's a wiring connection on the back. The next step is going to be to remove the taillight. .
Feel around with your hand, it's going to be towards the fender sides. It's an adjustable-width tow bar that comes with bumper mounting brackets. Now all 10 are there, we're going to put this retention piece back in. As you can see on this side there's only one location where's there's an empty hole, that's where we're going to put this yellow wire. Attach this end of your single red wire to that stud that you just pulled off then we're going to tighten down the nut that's been pressed onto the top. As you might know by now, you have to remove this inside access panel and then there's a 10 millimeter screw underneath. The next step is going to be to grab the included harness.
I got about 10 mpg on the trip, despite the fact that I tested the acceleration ability on almost every hill. Blue is going to go into cavity C and these are labeled. There are going to be two pushpins right here. The grommet is going to be on the inside of the fender well. Get the blue wire through first, make sure it doesn't get snagged on anything. I put a liberal amount of Locktite on the threads of those bolts--just in case.