Bill, my apologies for trying to lead you down the wrong path! His signal can be small wire. I believe you are saying I can simplify the wiring as shown below. Greg do you have the part numbers for those fir tree clips? Same electricity just a different animal. I wired a set of fog lights on my utv using the harness that came with the kit. Instead, you'd need to splice a wire from your high beam wire to the 30 prong on the relay. You can insert a dash mounted switch in one of the wires from the coil contacts so you can turn off the light bar relay when on high beam.
Btw 2010 model may not have it, google will be your friend. Use a test light to figure out which pin illuminates the high beam globe. You can use a relay - doesn't hurt anything - but the Pulse bar is already controlled by a relay that will insure that anything connected to the Pulse bar will only come on when the key is on prefered approach! Should be noted that even installing a properly sized relay does not guarantee you won't barbeque your buggy - a short or improperly sized gauge wire or defective component can lead to hot time in the old town tonight! There's going to be confusion depending on which Pulse bar you're working with. The only power that goes through the switch in the op's diagram is the power to energize the coil in the relay, putting very little strain on the switch. This way you aren't sending that 20 amps through your 12v toggle switch. With our , all you need to do is cut the wire coming from the switch to the 30 prong on the relay, and wire it to your high beam lead or your backup light wire. The fuse holder pic shows it in the key'd on wire for that particular accessory, but normally it would go in the lower wire for the constant positive.
A relay is typically used to control a component that draws high amperage. Basically you have circuit A using 12v and let's say 50 milliamps telling the relay to turn on when you activate it via toggle switch the relay then activates and takes the 12v it's receiving from the battery and sends it to the load which we'll say it's your 20 amp light bar. It connects to the positive + side of your battery or to a switched power source that only gets power when your ignition is on. It should be noted that either the power 86 or ground 85 in the relay control circuit c an be switched. If this is true for the front bar also, then Bill's schematic in post 1 would only leave him with a pool of 14 remaining amps instead of 34 amps! And I would run both negative and positive from battery. Is that supposed to be a place to mount the relays? I know you prefer to to have all your connections hot all the time - that makes sense for lots of users - but I can see an easy change to make the whole Pulse Bar 'Keyed Hot' for those users that may want the assurance of knowing when the key is off, everything will be off, like a standard add-on auxiliary fuse box on earlier models. No problem, we are here to help.
If the relay has a 5th terminal, it is not used. Kind of cryptic isn't it. The center wire terminal is meant to run relay's primarily with the lower terminal providing the amperage to the accessory. The five pin version has pin 87a, this pin will be live with 12v when the lights or other accessory is off. I have a light bar that came with a wiring harness and switch.
Thanks everyone for the comments. This provides a greater margin of safety. The two coil contacts can be connected across the high beam wires and the operation of the stalk switch only has and additional 200ma to handle. Keyed hot operates a lighted switch and then a relay. The fuse in the bar is meant to protect the ecm control circuit from overload. Hence, my suggestion to him below.
At the end of the episode I show how insanely bright the light bar is! You don't need one, but on objects that draw more, it's usually better to so could i conect the 2 pos and the 2 neg to the neg ang pos running off my light bar? Only way I would think that right off the always hot is wanted is if you have an unlighted switch and want to be able to turn the light bar on with the key off. Our site is specifically designed for you and it's a great place for Ford Ranger Fans to meet online. This greatly reduces the risk of shorting the battery, which is both exciting and very dangerous. Before you start, disconnect the vehicle battery. That would just introduce more components to maintain really.
My understanding on the Pulse connectors is that the top connector is ground, middle is keyed positive and bottom is constant positive. However, the information in this guide should be enough for the handy person to complete the task. Only way I would think that right off the always hot is wanted is if you have an unlighted switch and want to be able to turn the light bar on with the key off. It totally dies Both power terminals when the key is turned off. Plan to use 12ga wire, should not have any runs over 6'. Route wire away from high heat areas. But let me throw out an alternative and see if I can get agreement on my logic.
This is a simple modification that might be worth doing depending on your needs, because after all - who wants to redo their wiring if they don't have to, right? Routing the Wiring Try to keep wire lengths as short as possible. © 2019 Polaris Industries Inc. When in the center position off and when in the other side position will be switched in with your high beam light's. If you have doubts about your ability to deal with wiring, do not hesitate to employ an electrical specialist. The way he his listed is the way we have been talking about it, and how you get a Polaris made pulse wiring harness.
Best of all it's totally free! Which can be dangerous to oncoming motorists if you kill the high beams but the light bar stays on. The relay and switch would control whether or not power would be used from that terminal or not. Why Do I Need A Relay? As Bill stated above, the purpose of the relay is a safety valve of sorts, to help prevent this: Polaris and most aftermarket harness suppliers had a choice - make two different harnesses; one without a relay and one with a relay. So you'd want another switch on your dash that you turn off and on. Let's say you want have your come on with your high beams, or reverse lights, for example. Damo's dodgy boat building repair shop. Route wires along firewalls or the vehicle chassis.
I'm not sure about the indicator lights in your switch. I know you prefer to to have all your connections hot all the time - that makes sense for lots of users - but I can see an easy change to make the whole Pulse Bar 'Keyed Hot' for those users that may want the assurance of knowing when the key is off, everything will be off, like a standard add-on auxiliary fuse box on earlier models. Or for wiring aftermarket fogs via a relay? The relay would not even be needed since it serve no purpose there. More geese on that side. There's going to be confusion depending on which Pulse bar you're working with. Note: 85 and 86 can be reversed, but our harnesses have them setup this way. I'll try to get to that soon.